Archive for the ‘flanks’ Category

THE “WALK UP” COMMAND

Friday, June 11th, 2010

I have addressed how to train the flanks & stops.  Now we turn to the other important command:  “Walk up”.

Think of this command as the Power Button.  Remember, the flanks do NOT move sheep, just reposition the dog.  When he is in the correct position, he should move into the flight zone (contact point) of the sheep and gently move the sheep forward.  Slow, steady and STRAIGHT!!  Constant, gentle nudge; not goosey (too pushy).  Stop, go, stop, go does not make sheep move calmly.

How to train this?

Believe me, when I say this is one of the most difficult concepts I have to teach people.  It is not a “bring ‘em” command (fetch) or go round and round sheep.  Loose-eyed dogs have particular trouble w/ this, mostly because of their owners.  The point of reference of herding terminology to these dogs is the handler.  When dog usually hears the w.u as a release command and bounds merrily toward the handler.  The handler HAS to be aware of the dog looking at SHEEP, not people when using the w.u command.  DO NOT tell the dog to “come” to you to make him move up on the sheep.  DO NOT use w.u. when walking to the post.  When training this, the dog must first be on the opposite side of the sheep and pushing them to the handler, not going around the sheep to get to the handler.  I tell people to use “watch your sheep” to get the dog looking at woolies, then say w.u.  If the dog doesn’t have a straight walk up to the sheep, driving will be nearly impossible.  Many dogs also will go past the last sheep in an effort to get closer to the handler on the w.u. , thereby demonstrating they are NOT using power on sheep.

With Border Collies, the problem is the dog running to the head of the leader and not following the last sheep.  When training these dogs, use the “stop” to keep the dog behind the last sheep till the heading isn’t such a problem.  “Ringing” on the trial course is a SERIOUS penalty as it’s just a dog running to the heads excessively.  This doesn’t allow the sheep to follow a straight line in course work.  Once the dog’s balance is in play, he will bend enough to straighten the leader w/out turning it.

Other breeds don’t have the excessive heading but don’t like to walk into the pressure either.   Use prey drive to get these dogs motivated to move into contact, so in the early stages there may be some chasing.  EARLY STAGES ONLY!  This is not going to do you much good if the dog thinks it’s okay to chase sheep at will.   It’s amazing to me how many “loose-eyed” dogs demonstrate “eye” when on contact.  My Rottie had eye just like my BCs.  I see it in the Boxer we are training and some of the ACDs.  It’s a GOOD thing, as it helps the dog sense the contact point and move accordingly.

STOPPING THE DOG

Saturday, June 5th, 2010

I have been driveling on about the importance of a “flank” to move sheep appropriately.  However, the other element necessary, just as important, is the “stop”.  It’s not for the reason one would surmise.  Stopping the dog does NOT stop sheep, especially if they have a draw to go to.  The stop serves TWO purposes: (1) placement of the dog  and  (2) keeping the dog from doing the WRONG thing.

Remember, the flank is for positioning the dog w/out moving the sheep.  The stop allows the handler to observe the sheep and determine whether the “walk up” in order.  When the dog stops, the sheep will indicate which direction they will go.  This allows the handler to move the dog into another position (if the heads are not facing the direction h. wishes) or tell the dog to move them straight.  One can NOT get a straight line out of sheep w/ a dog in constant motion.  When sheep are being pushed around, they will make every attempt to FLEE.  A good handler wants SETTLED sheep; maleable and compliant to the dog’s pressure.  This absolutely will NOT be achieved w/ a dog in constant motion.

The second reason for the “stop” is to keep the dog from doing the WRONG thing.  So, if h. gives the dog a “go by” command and the dog goes the wrong direction, he can be stopped INSTANTLY before the damage is done.  It helps the dog learn FASTER if he is corrected the MOMENT he takes the incorrect command.  It’s important when training flanks to stop the dog instantly when he goes the wrong way.  DO NOT repeat the flanking command in an attempt to make him change.  JUST STOP HIM.

The stop is necessary for teaching a drive.  Universally, herding dogs want to bend around the sheep, instead of walking straight into them.  How to get the straight “walk up” will be the topic of next blog.

FLANKS, FLANKS & MORE FLANKS

Friday, May 28th, 2010

I have been droning on and on about the importance of the dog really knowing “right” vs “left” and the distance they should be from the sheep.  Now I am adding “Squaring”.  What are square flanks?  Why important?

The flank is not always a circle.  It is a left or right turn THE DOG MAKES in order to reposition self to advance on the sheep.  When told to “go by” (left) the dog should turn into his left shoulder and go that way.  When told to stop, he should stay at the distance from the sheep and not take three steps toward them.  Same w/ the “Awee” (right) turn.  Everytime the dog takes those fateful steps toward sheep, they move in reaction AWAY from the dog.  Alas, there goes a straight line and the scoring points.  Nearly 100% of the time when I am asked why the sheep are not going straight, it is the flank that caused the problem.  When we square the dog, the sheep go straighter and the line of course is achieved.

This is all going to be so much easier to illustrate WHEN I GET THE CAMERA GOING!  Yes, I purchased a very nice video camera and will be using it to upload the examples of all I describe.  Some of us do better SEEING than reading.

FLANKS & DRIVING

Friday, May 21st, 2010

I have promised my web genius, Tim, that I would produce a new blog each Friday.  He is also making it possible for me to add video links so readers can SEE what I am describing.  This should make this blog a GREAT teaching tool for all of you!  Keep your eyes pealed on Fridays!

Continuing the discussion of flanks:  how to turn those big circles into a simple “left, right” turn for the dog. Most of my discussion has involved making the flanks bigger, wider for gathering.  However, the same commands are used to produce the drive.   Most of my students think the challenge is getting the dog to push the sheep away from the handler to achieve the drive.  It’s not.  STEERING the sheep is the tough part.  Just like you don’t drive in your lane on the freeway by slinging the steering wheel left and right, the dog shouldn’t be wearing big circles.  Small movements are what keep the sheep in a straight line. How do we take those wide, beautiful circles into little, precise movements?  Read and learn…

The other problem w/ teaching the drive is the dog doesn’t even KNOW THE COMMANDS! Most beginners use their body/stick to produce the turns, not realizing the dog is DEPENDENT on the body language.  Therefore, as the dog begins moving sheep away, his back is to the handler and can’t see the cues.  This causes the dog to turn around and look for direction; some dogs go all the way back to the handler.  Makes it difficult to take sheep on a jaunt around the course.

The training for this is EASY but requires attention to your every movement.

First, when introducing flanks to the dog, REPEAT THE COMMANDS AS LONG AS THE DOG IS DOING IT!! ” Here it, do it” is the motto for good herding dogs.  Once you think the dog recognizes the word, give one cue w/ the first command and then duct tape your arms to your side and keep repeating it.  I guarantee the dog will stop as soon as you stop moving.  You need your dog to take the command w/out moving your body.  That’s the first step.

Next, start making the flanks of varying distances.  Full circles, half circles, quarter circles; dog should be turning to HIS right and left.  He should NOT angle toward the sheep or toward the handler.  When this is accomplished, it’s EASY getting the dog to go toward the sheep.  Don’t expect the “walk up” to always be STRAIGHT; sometimes the dog bends.  I will address how this can be amended in upcoming blogs.

Pre-Trial and HT

Saturday, February 27th, 2010

Tomorrow we are hosting an AHBA herding trial, along w/ a JHD . This is similar to the PT course in AKC.  I wish to take a moment and address how best to run these courses as I have seen many a wreck that was unnecessary.  Proper approach to the sheep would have eliminated much of the messiness of the runs.

First, the sheep used in tests are mandated to be of a tame and dog-broke nature, so they shouldn’t be easily panicked.  I always put the PT sheep on a good pile of hay, away from the entry gate so as to allow the handler to enter the arena at a safe distance.  Leave the dog 0n it’s “stay” at this gate and advance BY YOURSELF to the sheep.   The sheep  will migrate to the person if the dog is calmly at a safe distance.  DO NOT WALK YOUR DOG TOWARD THE SHEEP ON LEASH!!  I can’t tell you how many times competitors have walked toward the sheep w/ the dog straining on the leash, causing the sheep to run away.  I observed one handler literally drive her sheep to a corner w/ her dog leashed, hoping to “capture” the sheep from running.  WRONG!!  Put yourself in the sheep’s hooves and see how readily YOU would stay in a trap w/ a prey-driven dog.  It was a disaster and I had to run out to drive the dog away from the sheep.  Another handler w/ a nice Corgi, chased the sheep around the arena w/ the dog leashed to his side and complained the sheep wouldn’t stop running!   He would get w/in 15′ of the flock and off they would go!

When your dog is on a good “stay” and you have the sheep calmly eating from your pocket :) …send your dog  around the sheep on the WIDEST side so as to get more distance.  This requires a FLANK (read previous blogs).  If the dog runs AT you or the sheep, your woolies will take flight assuming you have no control.  If the flank begins properly; as in the dog bends AWAY from the sheep, the sheep should stay close  and follow you around the course.

When the handler w/ the Corgi went for his 2nd run, I suggested he do it this way.  Voila! Sheep stayed w/ him and they did a great job.

A word about “Dog Broke, Tame” sheep:  they are DOG SAVVY!!  They read them better than most people.  If the dog is demonstrating even the smallest lack of control, they are flighty!  If you go into the arena and your dog breaks from his spot and begins the chasing motion, they are gone!  It’s the nature of the wooly beasts to SURVIVE!   Everything about your dog’s attitude should be keen but controlled. I will be addressing the technique necessary in achieving this.